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Landscape Photography Course - Sydney
Saturday March 3rd 2012
Have you ever wanted to take your Landscape Photography to the next level but are unsure how?
Andrew Losurdo, Australia’s first "Sigma Pro Photographer" will show you all the tips and tricks to help you get the most out of your landscape photography. "Anyone can take beautiful landscape shots. It is not down to the equipment used, simply an understanding of correct camera technique and "training" the eye to see a variety of compositional components. Anyone can take photos like mine!"
This course is aimed at the complete beginner to the serious amateur photographer.
The course will cover (and is not limited to):
Camera Basics (Setting up and understanding how and why to set your camera up for certain shots)
Understanding your histogram and its importance in landscape photography
Compositional elements of landscape photography
Camera filters and how to use them in landscape photography
Understanding how light effect your end result
Touching on post processing techniques
It is important to note that this course has a core structure, however we find that students have many other questions on the day. The course will cover the points mentioned above as well as much more.
At the end of the course you will be competent and have an understanding of the factors involved in taking great landscapes.
As we keep or group sizes small, you will have plenty of 1 on 1 time with Andrew.
Camera SLR (Film or Digital) & a basic understanding on how to put it in certain modes etc. (aperture, manual etc.)
Circular Polarizer Filter
As we will be walking from location to location, reasonable to good fitness is required.
LOCATION: We try to pick the best location on the day by observing the weather forecasts etc. We will notify in plenty of time. Generally it will be on the Northern or Eastern suburbs beaches or Sydney Harbour.
Usually $395, now only $195 - 50% OFF for a limited time only
Spots are strictly limited, our last course sold out in 2 days. If you are interested we suggest you contact us or make a booking a.s.a.p.
What a great weekend! I had pleny of time and took plenty of photos! I started of at Bare island on Saturday morning and wanted to capture the bridge connecting to the island. Unfortunately it was very grey and rainy saturday morning and the lighting wasnt the best for this. Instead, i took photos of textures and objects that i usually would not be to interested in.
I came back to La Perouse Saturday afternoon for sunset to capture the ship wreck on the island (behind NSW Golf Course).
Sunday morning i was up bright and early and it was looking like a beautiful day, so i headed to the city (Sydney) and again captured a few images i generally would not have been to interested in.
All shots were taken with a Sigma 12-24mm f4.5-5.6 EX DG HSM and Sigma 24-70mm f2.8 EX DG HSM. I can not speak highly enough of both these lens (especially the 24-70mm). Great sharpness, contrast and clarity.
Here is what i captured:
The Sigma APO 70-200mm f/2.8 EX DG OS HSM Lens has won the "Best Expert Lens" TIPA (Technical Image Press Association) Award, Europe’s leading image press association.
"The Sigma Corporation is pleased to announce that the SIGMA APO 70-200mm F2.8 EX DG OS HSM, a large aperture telephoto zoom lens optimized for use with the latest digital SLR camera and incorporating Sigma’s original OS function, has won the “TIPA Best Expert Lens” award. This lens was introduced to market in July 2010."
For the best prices in Australia for this lens and a 2 Year Genuine Australian Warranty, more details can be found HERE
In todays article, we are going to have a look at PANNING TECHNIQUES and what works for me. There are a lot of different ways to go about panning for many different situations, but essentially you need to find what works for you.
I went up to the Old Pacific Hwy on the weekend to take some panning shots of motorcyclists (I am a keen motorcyclist so i thought this would be a great way to demonstrate panning).
A FEW PANNING TIPS & TECHNIQUES (THAT WORK FOR ME)
- If you can put your camera (cannon) On AF SERVO , which is a mode that keeps adjusting the focus as you move the camera (even with the shutter held halfway down), it will make your life a lot easier
- Set your camera drive mode to continuous burst. This is allows you the keep shooting at your cameras maximum rate. NB: If you cant seem to shoot at a high enough rate, it maybe because you have Noise Reduction (high iso or shutter speed) as well as other in camera functions on. Turn these off and it should fix the issue.
- ISO is your friend! I know for certain situation, i like a particular shutter speed and/or aperture. You can adjust your ISO to get to your desired shutter speed and aperture
- Aperture or Depth of Field has little to do with getting a blurred background. A lot of people seem to think that if they use a larger aperture (smaller F/ number) then this will help create a blurred background, which essentially what we want. Depending on the subject, i will generally use an aperture of f/7 to about to approximately f/13. Depending on the size, of the subject and how far away you are from them, you may find that using a large aperture of f/2.8 you may not get the entire subject in focus.
- Shutter Speed is your main focus when panning to create both as sharp as possible image with a blurred background. Start off shooting in Shutter Priority Mode. Setting a the right shutter speed depends on how fast the subject is travelling, how far away from the subject you are and what focal length you are using. In these photos i was on the side of the road, approximately 4-10metres away. No matter how fast the subject is moving, i still follow the rule for shutter speed vs focal length to minimise camera shake. The rule being, if you are using a focal length of 100mm, then the shutter speed should not be any less then 1/100. If you are using a 70mm focal length then a shutter speed now lower then 1/70. Now this is only a rule, it CAN be broken. But start of with this as a guide. In this series of photos i was shooting at between 1/60 and 1/100
- Tracking the Subject: Say the subject is approaching coming from left to right. Start tracking the subject when they appear in view and try to keep the subject in the middle of the viewfinder and pan Smoothly from left to right, with out stopping or slowing down mid pan otherwise you will get a useless image. I generally start panning when the subject is in sight but only start pressing the shutter when they are at 45 degrees from me on either side ie \ | / (if that makes sense). Remember to keep tracking the subject even when you have taken your finger of the shutter.
- I am generally don't use a monopod or tripod for panning. Using a tripod things can get a bit tricky. Monopods are easier to use for panning. I am a little bit uncoordinated and depending on the day (how uncoordinated i am) i may have one hand on the camera body and shutter as normal and another guiding the lens. Sometimes i seem to have my left hand fighting against my right hand, where i am pushing the camera body one way and pulling the lens the other way. When im having an UNCOordinated day, i will try shooting with just one hand on the camera body and nothing guiding the lens (this depends how larger your lens is and what focal length you are using). Believe it or not, you do need a bit of coordination when panning. ABOVE ALL, Just remember to pan SMOOTHLY (constant speed) from left to right or vice versa.
- Your cameras viewing screen is SMALL and deceptive. You may think from looking at it, the subject is in focus. ZOOM as much as you can on viewing the image to confirm, you might be unpleasantly surprised. When I'm taking photos of bikes, i zoom in as much as i can on the viewing screen and as a guide, if i can see the writing on the side of the bike (Model, Name, Brand etc) then i know i have got in focus.
Here are a few photos i took on the weekend. I hope this can be of some help to you. If you have any thoughts, techniques and/or suggestions, please leave a comment.
This was shot at 1/60, f7.1 ISO 320 at 70mm (see the rule can be broken)
This was shot at 1/80, f8 ISO 400 at 70mm
This was shot at 1/80, f3.2 at 70mm. Notice how the rider is leaning quite a bit off the bike and is not focused that well (he is closer to me then the actual bike).
When using a large aperture and depending on how close you are to the subject (i was relatively close, a few metres), you may get out of focus areas of the subject as below.
As always: If you would like any of your photos added to our blog, please email me a bit about what you took and the photos. Alternatively (and probably easier) add them to our Facebook page HERE and we can link them to the blog!
Have a great day!
When it comes to camera filters, the rule of thumb is to clean them as infrequently as possible. Cleaning too often peels off the coatings and leaves the camera filters with the so-called “cleaning scratches.” Many photographers would agree that camera filters should be cleaned only when necessary and if dust, dirt, and gunk are especially affecting the quality of pictures. Though the cleaning process itself is easy, care should be observed, especially because camera filters can be easily damaged. To help you, here is a guide.
Always remember to clean your camera filters at home or anywhere there is access to cleaning materials and has a well-lit workspace. Cleaning them while you are in a photography session is unadvisable, as there is always the possibility of doing it hurriedly, propelling you to use just any cleaning material, your shirt for instance, and therefore cause unsightly scratches.
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